Let’s face it. Climbing in the desert southwest can be pretty freaking intimidating. There’s no life around (unless you’re at Indian Creek) and everything is stark and harsh. And sandstone by the very nature of its name doesn’t inspire confidence. “So like… Sandy rock? Is that stuff even safe to climb on?” Yeah. Exactly. Sandy, crumbly rock. But this enchanting land of towers, spires, splitters, and walls is one of the most beautiful and rewarding climbing destinations on the planet. Here are four tips for making the most out of your desert climbing experience.
1. Know what you’re doing
I think the number one key for enjoying a desert climbing experience is being confident in your abilities. Knowing that you’re capable of climbing this stuff and knowing what you and your gear can do is essential. This is not a place where you want to yell down to your belay, “So… how do I tell if I’ve placed this cam thing right?”
2. Have a good lead head
This usually comes with being experienced. If you’re scared leading granite cracks, then sandstone probably won’t be any better, now will it? I’m not saying you need to a hardcore headpointer who can lead a 120-foot pitch with only 2 copperheads for protection, but the more confident you are above your gear or above questionable gear, the more comfortable you’ll be in the desert.
3. Step by step
If you’re a beginning trad climber, don’t go jump on some horror show in the Fisher Towers. You’ll wet yourself and will swear off desert climbing forever. Find some nice bomber wingate sandstone cracks. Climb something well within your abilities. Then move on to softer sandstones and harder stuff if you’re a sick punk who actually enjoys this stuff. Sicko.
4. Enjoy the scenery
The desert is unlike any other place on earth. It’s stark, it’s beautiful, it’s harsh. The colors are vivid and bold. The features (towers and arches, for example) are unique and breathtaking.
And that’s it. Four really pretty simple things, but things every desert n00b needs to keep in mind. Play your cards right and you just might find yourself coming back again and again… and again.
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Climbing in the desert isn’t necessarily sandstone–here in northern Mexico you’re talking limestone!
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